CHOBE LODGE

Hans and Wimcar suggest we go and visit different Lodges, drink a beer and make our decision for the next 10 days. We went for Cappuccino's at Chobe Safari Lodge. This has been Hans and Elisme's favorite spot 15 years ago. Hans coming back from Uganda. The Wi-fi needs no password. Photo's send easy.

We meet Rudolf, Diana ( she looks like the princess, who's name she is sharing) Ferry and Madelein - all from Brandfort in the Freestate. 

  

They asked Hans to arrange that they can join us on our Zambezi boat trip.

Lunch was so well prepared and excellent presented. The wine was helping to put us in the right mood for the coming boat trip.

Extra ice and cocktails on the boot, we meet our Captain - Stephen. A well knowledge guide. He entertained us with facts about the Kubu island. World court decision in DenHagen in Netherland, gave it to Botswana. Reason the water depth deeper on Namibian side.

The difference between the Red Letschwe and Puku. Black lines on their hind legs, on the front side, different type of horns.

Two Hippo's mating, a first for Elisme to see, as well as a baby Crocodile swimming on the island side.

A sunset the most beautiful for this trip. Elephants walking out of the water on to the grass, while the sun sets behind them in a red fire ball. We all had goose pimples. This is a once in a lifetime sighting.  Next to us was a boat with students doing a photography coarse. They couldn't believe their luck. Cameras with lenses as bazooka.  

As the sunset and the Elephants wave goodbye with their tails and trunks,  we set of to the Jetty. 

We won the race.

16 September Wednesday we left, driving through Chobe to Mwani View Camp.

Elephants, Kudu, Zebra, Ostricts, Roan Antelope. Per square meter Park Chobe has the most elephants. They don't kill the trees, they only eat the branches.

Mwani Camp is a new one, Anton and Daan is still busy with the last finishes. 

The swimming pool was so inviting, Wimcar and Hans endured the freezing water. Cooling of the 32 degrees outside. Brand new top of the range ablution facility's , steaming hot water. Green grass on each camping site.  A platter with cold meats, cheese, biscuits, fruit and ice cold wine and sparkling water. Can life get better? 

 Africa's sunsets words is hard to find, all we felt in ourselves were a gratefulness, how privilege we're. Wimcar, Nellie, Hans and Elisme sitting at their fire, watching the sunset, a half bow moon appears ( sekel maan) just where the sun went down. 

As the sun moved further on it circle away from us, darkness cover the earth with its cloth. Millions of stars appear shining like diamonds. Wimcar always the thinker, remarked: " nothing change in our 100 year life time. Although things change, we're not long enough on earth to see it"

A Leopard was in distress close to our camp. We couldn't see it.

Elisme woke up with 6 heavy rifle gunshots. Hans and Elisme thought it must be poachers of Elephants?   

Thursday we entered the Savuti part of Chobe at the Ghoha gate. The Park is fully booked but we got 3 nights at Khwai Community Camp. 

Swaying and swinging on a 140 km. Road we left the Chobe. Saw an giant Roan, a very white Giraffe, Elephants in a good condition and Blue Wilde bees looking for shade under the trees. 

43km to Khwai - a deep sandy bumpy road, all the way to the Khwai. Our worth while magnificent shady trees, just as magnificent,  2 giant elephants keeping our camp site for us! This is real bush camp, no facilities and no water. 

Last Night we were entertained by a orchestra of Hyena songs. Hans read in his Wildlife Reference book, hyenas can make 14 different sound. We were delighted to hear many of them.

The Khwai River with its  bird life of abandons. Park  like special spots, lushes green grass and waterlilies. We had coffee and brunch, everything just taste exquisite in such an environment. 

Always there was and Elephants and Hippo to join in the feast.

 Gosh hawk and Fish eagle on the water were eager on lookers.

Friday evening as we were having a lovely Dinner, table laid for a King and cuisine good for the best French. The Hippo came  out of the water, 20m from us. Then 3 young hyenas decided to  come and investigate what is going on in their territory. Just as Nellie and Wimcar was getting ready to go to bed. Nellie did the Polka dance while brushing here teeth. Wimcar wanted to do his last bush round had to walk backwards and watched. Hans and Elisme already in bed had a good laugh, while the hyena's just continue undisturbed on their mission. 

12:00 o'clock at the Khwai River a glass of sparkling water in crystal glass, video ready, bath time for hundreds of elephants. What a delight watching them, playing games with each other. We drove 11 km along the river and all along there where elephants. I wonder is this a elephant migration, from the one side of the Khwai to the other side?

One brave Giraffe thought it safe to come for a drink. The temperature now 40 degrees. Thanks to  air-con    Vehicles.

Photo ( giraffe )

Hans as always saw the game viewing vehicles moving back. He thought its the 80 Buffalo's we saw crossing the river. This time it was a Leopard drinking water. No difference in the behavior of the drivers of game viewing vehicles. No respect for any other Park Visitors they just push forward, weather right in front  of anybody's view.

Saturday late afternoon our Elephant visit was 5 meters behind Nellie and Elisme - having their coffee. That was the closest they've every been to an Elephant without any vehicle protection.  Slowly they moved away seeking cover behind the Landy. The Elephant was paying no attention to them, just enjoying the sweet young leaves of the trees.

Dinner of Ribeye steak by candle light, music the Hippo choir 20 meters from the table. Genet and Hyena incisively coming in the light to  see what is going on. Satisfied turn round and disappeared in the dark, the way they came.

Once again as sooo many-times on this trip, we realize! The animal world open there territory for human-beans. They're prepared to live in peace and harmony with us.

Sunday morning we left. We drove all along the Khwai. Mr. Hawk eyes (Hans) spotted  a Lioness lying next to a bush. With closer investigation we saw here  morning catch ( a Impala) neatly hidden between the branches.

We came to the Khwai river crossing to enter the Moremi. 

Hans once again as always checked. He decided to go!! Then the water was right over the bonnet of the Landy. Nellie en Wimcar just watching. As we stopped across, Elisme opened her door and water was running out from everywhere.  Wimcar came over: "FOK!  Hans hier gaan ek nie deur kom nie" (SORRY). He said they thought the Landy was going to disappear completely under the water.  As the Landy subsided like a U-boat under the water,  away for a moment then emerging on the other side. A scary moment. Thanks the river bed was hard. Else the 3,9 ton Landy would've been berried! As Hans will say SALUTE THE LANDY!

They got a alternative crossing.

                           We all agree the Kwhai Park has more animals then the Moremi.

We have now 14,000 km on the clock.

Kiziikini Camp a community campsite 27 km from Moreni Gate was our over night stop. Canvas Ablution clean with hot water showers was a bonus tonight.

On the coals tonight was 500 gm T bones. Hans choice Portuguese steak, egg and chips.

Our only company tonight was the song of the Nightjar and the Pearly spotted Owl. With that we went to bed, only to be awaken by 2 visitors. A Honey-bagger and Big Hyena coming to check if everything was in order. Satisfied with their findings.

Early morning the Guineafowl and Red-billed Spurfowl were practicing their morning songs.  So different to the noise we wake up with at home.

Today we'll head to Maun.

KAPISHA HOT SPRING

We had a well deserved 2 days at Kapisha hot spring. Making use of the sparkling clean warm healing water. The 6 of us visited the pool as often as we could.

The bird life with exceptional birds you can only see in this part of the world. Wimcar took amazing beautiful photo's. Ross's Turaco Photo Hans spotted a Violet back Starling.

Our camping spot on the river bank under the shady trees was a perfect spot to watch birds and read.

For the Third time Hans tooth crown came loose. Nellie and  Wimcar being the dentist every time .  Nothing easy about this.

 Mark Harvey the owner of Kapisha and his wife are still maintaining the Gore Brown ( their Grandfathers dream 1914) Shiwa Ngandu is back to former glory thanks to Gore Browns grandson and wife Charles ( Charlie) and his wife Jo-Ann Harvey.

Shiwa and Kapisha must be a GPS point on any visit to Africa.  Wimcar stated to Mark " We've visited many places on our trip, but Kapisha and Shiwa are the only once, where he can see improvement." We agree with that. 

Saturday 12 September 2015 with 12,000km on the clock, we left Kapisha at 7:00am. Fringila farm will be our stop tonight so we've to do 500km. Luckily it will be a tar road, max speed 100km. Every town speed limit of 65km. The journey will take us 10 hours.

Hans has booked our camping and ordered T bones and farm vegetables for tonight. Seeing it is Saturday their hospitality exceed our expectations. They will keep our order for us.

Truck after truck - this was reminding us of the prosperity of Zambia. 

Mkushi we saw many commercial working farms. Agri's involvement is visible in this area. We saw 2 bill boards. 

Fringilla farm we got our fresh vegetables and meat. We all agreed it was the best meat we had on this trip, since our meat from home was finish.  Fringilla is still well-kept and business is flourishing. Joseph asked to address us tonight, his last evening. Tomorrow at Lusaka we'll say goodbye. He will get a bus back to  Malawi to his family. After his annual leave he will come back by bus on the 12 October. 

He thanked us all for the privilege to see all the different countries and staying in hotels. We agree it was a very good speech. You could hear it was coming from his heart, how we touched their life's ( him and his family). 

Sunday morning after thanking God. Chris and Julia left for Livingston, we'll meet them there tonight. The rest of us will first organize Joseph at the Mall in Lusaka.

The security guard at the Mall, got Joseph to his taxi. After saying our goodbyes, we went shopping.

517 km to go today

Maramba Camp at Livingston was one of the best ablution facilities we had on our Safari. During the night Hans and Elisme woke up with 2 Hippo's grazing right next to the landy. Amazing how these wild animals just continue with their habits as if humans do not exist. IF YOU DONT DISTURB THEM.

Wimcar and Nellie went to view the Victoria Waterfalls? Although the water level was still very low, it always stays a WORLD WONDER. Beautiful.

Monday 14 Sept was time to cross the border to Botswana at Kazangula. The info we got is that this is now one of the worst crossings.

Hans took the lead and being and old hand in Africa, he sorted the guys. He choose one guy and negotiated with him. His instruction was nobody near us and he takes us threw all procedures and on the Ferry.

Less than an hour later our passports stamped all the. Vehicle  document done and on the ferry. We can strongly recommend to make use of a guide taking you through and pay him a decent fee. He is doing an honest job. The offices have no signage, you've no idea where to go. Truck drivers told us they waited 5 days to do a ferry border crossing. Seeing that only 2 ferry's are working.

Our entree to Botswana was easy, except for them taking our fruit, banana's and Oranges. According to them of the fruit fly spreading. Walk through disinfectant, car search. 

We were ready to say GOODBYE to Chris and Julia. They are going back home now.

Wimcar, Nellie, Hans and Elisme will do the Chobe, Savuti and Swamps.

They camped at Kubu Camp site. 

LAKE VICTORIA

Papa's along side Lake Victoria will be our over night.  A well maintained Restaurant and gardens bordering the Lake met our eyes. 

The aroma of freshly brewed coffee welcomed us. A cup of coffee in the hand we could admire Lake Victoria once again. Being a source of life to Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda, these countries shouldn't have a water problem at all. The depth is 80m at some places.

Here we rent a bungalow to use as a ablution facility. We enjoyed a colonial moment. Our chairs placed on the grass under umbrella trees, cheese and fish out of tins served. We could just as well be Livingston ( Hans is not called Livingston junior with no reason) 

              

                                                          Each of us catching up on our reading.

Elisme couldn't wait to get her teeth in to "THE AFRICA HOUSE" by Christina Lamb a gift from Wimcar. This is the story of SHIWA NGANDU  (Kapisha hot springs). Our favorite place to visit in Zambia. 

Nellie spoiled Wimcar with a pedicure. Just what the doctor prescribed for stressed-out feet.

Supper was a light meal on the terrace, mosquito's were our main guests. Thanks to repellents . Wimcar got his fish, rice and veggies when our meals was done. Africa???

7:00 Friday morning 28 August - we left. Hans morning praise was all about LOVE.

Mwanza the second biggest city in Tanzania were buzzing with activities.

Once again the traffic etiquette  of Africa leaves  you in astonishment. Pass any vehicle when you want, doesn't matter if there is a car coming from the front, THEY'VE BRAKES!!!!

Then follows TRAFFIC TICKET after TRAFFIC TICKET. 50 km. But never a sign canceling it. First Wimcar then Hans twice, pay 30,000 shillings and of you go. Hans as the negotiator got away with 20,000 and then the second time with 10,000. Wimcar said: " next time they catch you on 54 km.  you'll pay nothing?" To drive 50 kmh for this distance is impossible not to over speed. 50 is the speed 51 is a ticket. Or 100kmh STILL 30,000 shillings. ?????

Chris call them the ICE CREAM BOYS ( with their white uniforms) They jump out of every bush with their cameras.

Corruption is everywhere, if you settle for no receipt. The money disappear in a pocket, a friendly wave and off we go.????

I must say this is the most tiring 450km. With no warning the tare ends, road workers the worst I have ever seen. Dust clouds and trucks.  No vision. This is a recipe for an accident. 

We left 7:00 and now 16:00 still 70 km from our destination. By now everybody was tired and totally strained out.

Singida offer a Catholic Guest house as a rest place to us. We were even  allowed to make a fire. Soon our fire with the help of Chris and diesel was burning high. Fresh veggies from Papa's the home setup and kept by the American for 70 abused, molested and orphan girls. Were tonight a welcome as a ONE POT DISH. Everybody enjoyed the pot added mince and fresh herbs. 

 Friday evenings the Catholic choir sings hymns till late night. That was like lulu-bye songs to us, soon we all were in-dreamland. Just to be gruel awake by the Moslem morning prayer by 3 microphones, each cracking and squeaking.  

 At 5:00am Wimcar and Nellie was the least impressed. 
We left at 6:00 and not as usual time 7:00.

Iringa our next stop 580km away at 50km/per h. Tonight we'll sleep with Annie a South African girl her parents is staying at Bateleur in Nelspruit. Hans got her detail from Hans and Mariette. She has been very helpful. 

Ordering supplies of meat and veggies from the OLD FARM HOUSE. That is normally our overnight stop.  They'll join us tonight for a South African braai.

Hans now getting road clever, 50km per hour, he used a big bus or truck as a shield. So they caught the bus and we were of the hook. Chris and Wimcar then follows knowing there is no  danger.

Dodoma a clean town, usual  Saturday month end queues all lined up at the ATM'S. We gave it up as a bad job, to try and draw money. No garage accepts cards, although there signs show, Visa cards welcome???? 10,000km now on the clock. As Chris puts it, he is never going to touch a cars steering wheel again in South Africa!!!

Annie waited on the road, she attended a birthday party with here 3 lovely children. That made it so easy for us just to follow.

Quentin and Annie are very successful mushroom and vegetable farmers. They've an extra guest house on their farm. We spent 2 nights there. Their hospitality as a deep Christian family has no ends. She made us a lovely beef stew. ( can you think 7 extra total strangers). Her friendliness  and spontaneous personality, just make you feel so welcome. Quentin soon join in and with his knowledge of Tanzania got our attention.

They had 15 Christian family for a picnic on their lawn Sunday.

Nellie was spoiling Elisme with a Foot massage. Elisme had a rough night struggling with cramps. Nellie was an Angle. No more cramps, she took away all the tension.

We were so privilege to have them as our guest at our table.
 A late Sunday lunch of oxtail and pudding. 

Elisme and Nellie enjoyed the coal stove with no shortage of wood. The pudding was Nellie's baby in the oven. Once she got it to 300 Celsius it was baking. The oxtail was 8 hours simmering happily on the  coal stove.

Chris and Hans took the time to clean and check their vehicles. Reading was high up on the menu with Wimcar, Elisme, Hans and Julia. Deck chairs out on the deck was just the way to go.

After an enjoyable and lots of laughter meal at a lovely laid table by Nellie and Julia. Quentin said a farewell prayer to GOD to protect our families on our way. 

We left at 7:00 the next morning. Mbeya is 300 km at 50 km/per hour again. We'll need lots of patience.

Hans got behind a truck doing 90 km per hour that made the distance much shorter. Until an Ice cream man pulled the truck over for speeding.

There was no difference to Mbeya's traffic. Chris needed a new battery, as Hans took it from the bonnet it burst when it got on the ground. Luckily it didn't explode  in the car. 

Wimcar took the 3 girls to supermarket to do the shopping. Our pantries were now on a low.

Blue Water bay with its stretched out shore and bordered on the East side by the Livingston Mountain, little lanterns burning, a picture of tranquility.

 Thomas prepared us a lovely dinner, under the rising moon and a beach fire burning.

Here we can stay for a week, this was the feeling of everybody.